Haute Couture Fashion Week: all about the second day

The second day of the Haute Couture Week brought . The big names of the industry reveal their Fall and Winter collection all around the French Capital. We compiled the best of the second day for you!

Chanel, Alexis Mabille, Stéphane Rolland, Charles de Vilmorand, Imane Ayissi, and Giorgio Armani Privé revealed their Fall Winter collections on the second day of the Paris Haute Couture Fashion Week. Scroll down to learn everything!

Kate Blanchet attended Armani Privé show at the Haute Couture FW 2024-25 in Paris

Chanel, by In-House Team

The Haute Couture Fall runway 2024 would have been the last collection Virginie Viard worked on, but the designer left the Maison out of a sudden, after three decades at the company (five as creative director), right after presenting a collection that impressed executives and brought record revenue. Chanel’s creditted an in-house design team as the author of this show.

The location of the show was the inspiration for this season: the opulence and thetricality of the Palais Garnier adds a whole new level of dramaticity to any event, but most specialy the fashion ones. Chanel codes such as tweed, beading and tulle were presente all over the collection, but they have been modernized when it comes to silhouette and shape.

The collection by pays homage to its founder, Gabrielle Chanel, who once designed costumes for ballets like Le Train bleu (1924) and Apollon Musagète (1928). This collection seamlessly blends the worlds of opera and Chanel Haute Couture. The pieces are richly embroidered, infusing the House’s codes with a romantic twist. The reimagined forms exude an assertive and liberating charm, embodying timeless elegance that defies passing trends. The materials used include feathers, tassels, cabochons, embroidered flowers, precious braids, lacquered jersey, supple tweeds, silky velvet, illusion tulle, taffeta, and duchesse satin, creating a symphony of opulence and ethereal beauty.

Alexis Mabille: sewing bubbles

Alexis Mabille presented his collection titled “Champagne”. The show took place at the Lido in Paris, where the new décor was meticulously crafted. This exuberant collection celebrates the joy of life, capturing the effervescence of champagne through luxurious fabrics and vibrant designs. The pieces feature fluid crepe, sensual jersey, structured satin, shimmering lamé, and a lively color palette. It’s a radiant collection designed for a woman who embodies playfulness, delicacy, allure, and effervescence—much like a champagne bubble!

“Graphic, but Soft”, by Stéphane Rolland

Stéphane Rolland’s collection seamlessly blends classic elegance with modern innovation. The luxurious fabrics—wool crepe, velvet, gazar, tulle, and satin—take center stage, offering a fresh perspective on tailoring. The collection showcases big-shouldered jackets with a masculine edge, cleverly transforming into cinched dresses. These structured pieces beautifully contrast with the flowing transparency of chiffon. Rolland describes it as “graphic, but soft,” emphasizing the overall softness and allure of the designs.

The collection features striking pieces that beautifully blend structure and fluidity. The opulence of dinner dresses in black velvet, adorned by diamond belts and brooches contributed to the refined aesthetic of the collection.

Charles de Vilmorin and a Dark Fairytale

Charles de Vilmorin’s collection was a whimsical murder mystery brought to life on the runway. Playful silhouettes, theatrical embellishments, and a touch of gothic glamour made for a truly unforgettable fashion experience. Inspired by Agatha Christie’s murder mysteries, de Vilmorin transformed his show into a cinematic Gothic fairy tale. The runway featured characters straight out of a dark storybook: witches, wicked stepsisters, a charming prince, and even a Little Red Riding Hood in a wolf costume. The designer’s imaginative approach created an atmosphere akin to a mysterious film.

Drawing from his ballet background, De Vilmorin imbued the collection with a rich sense of performance and paid homage to French culture. Reflecting on his creative journey, he candidly shared how he overcame self-doubt after his time as creative director at Rochas. “I went through a period of uncertainty, but now I simply want to enjoy myself,” he expressed, embodying the playful energy that characterized the collection.

Imane Ayissi Presents the Africa’s sequin: Raffia

Backstage, Imane Ayissi humorously declared, “Raffia is Africa’s sequins,” as models flaunted luxuriously fringed designs from his fall couture collection. Ayissi’s showcase not only celebrated raffia—a material woven into significant life events and artworks across the continent—but also symbolized his mission to elevate Africa’s craftsmanship, expertise, and couture onto the global stage.

Imane Ayissi, the first designer from sub-Saharan Africa to grace the official couture calendar, stands at the forefront of a continent teeming with rich artisanal talent and heritage. His position was underscored by a 2021 exhibition at Les Arts Décoratifs. Ayissi’s ethos revolves around cultural soft power and mutually enriching exchanges, rather than dominance.

In his Fall Couture collection, Ayissi wove together elements from Western, African, and Asian cultures, creating a captivating tapestry. His signature layered silhouettes, predominantly in jewel-toned monochrome, played a game of associations. Ayissi even drew inspiration from kaba dresses—an Empire-line shape introduced to the West by colonizers. He aims to showcase Africa’s talent, substance, and materials to the world. With all eyes on Paris Couture Week, Ayissi made a compelling case for African creativity.

Giorgio Armani Privé: Pearl Extravaganza

Italian designer Giorgio Armani’s Haute Couture collection introduced a “new” motif: the pearl. Over 89 looks, he explored the serenity of beauty, weaving pearls into his designs.

The collection featured delicate suits with mother-of-pearl buttons, black velvet berets adorned with dropped pearls, and liquid silk tie-up jackets embroidered with Black Tahitian pearls. A cape made entirely of pearl strings offered a daring bridal option, while an interlocking crystal and pearl slip was perfect for exchanging vows. Armani’s evening wear, including structural tops and velvet gowns, invited us to a proverbial soirée.

Cate Blanchett (cover picture), in the front row, likely considered these exquisite pieces for her upcoming film premieres. Mr. Armani’s collection was a pearl of wisdom in the world of haute couture.